Sunday, October 10, 2010

Broke down due to presumed fuel starvation & gas leak

Finally after months of my scooter sitting and not running I was able to work on it. The last time I rode my Chetak it would fire up and run for a few blocks and then sputter out and stall. It took a little while, but I could get it running again and the story repeated itself. I first checked the fuel lines and then the fuel flow. Everything seemed clear there.

Next I, I took apart and cleaned my carb.

I labeled what lines go where so as not to forget.

I took every part of the carb apart and cleaned it.

I removed slide and the manufacture's screws were punched on the back side so the screws would not fall out. I used a split washer and blue lock-tight to replace them.

I let the lock-tight dry over night and put the carb back together.

Even though I saw no crystalization on the jets or anything I really hoped the bike would fire up after I reinstalled the carb.

It did not. There is compression and it appeared the fuel was flowing and the carb was functioning, but it did not fire up.

April 4, 2010 follow-up . . . I replaced the spark plug tonight and the bike is now running thanks to some advice from the Retro Bajaj forum. It is also possible that the original Indian spark plug cap may be firing when you test it for spark, but the $6 replacement for a new NGK one will result in a bike that does not sputter.

I looked beneath the gas tank to check the fuel lines and such once more and found this:

I traced the line to the "Canister Kit".
And then I traced it to the top of the fuel tank.

I am not exactly sure what the Canister Kit does as my Service Manual and Parts Catalog give little insight. I am going to look into that. I wonder if it pushes air to the gas tank to help with the gravity feed.

I do not have a spare line to replace the split on yet.

Which by the way makes a puddle of gas when I kick start -- not sure why. I suspect it happened when I rolled the scooter down the ramp out of my garage without the seat on it. I sat on the bike and I may have sat on the "L" valve. A used gas tank costs $5o. The other option is to find someone who will weld a dry clean gas tank - also possible. The easiest and first step should be to test JB Weld on it. Remember, the way of least resistance is always best when repairing scoots.

Step 1 was to clean the area of grease so the JB Weld would stick. Note that I rode with a sock to catch the gas, but obviously the sock was damp and ate a way at the paint. Damn that was dumb of me. It would have been better to leave the area without a sock and let the gas evaporate, which would hurt the paint less. I did not know this.

Step 2 is to lightly sand the area, wipe clean and air dry the area.

Step 3 prep the JB Weld.

Step 4 is to apply the JB Weld. Lay it thick enough to slant outward so the base is wider. Here you can see the paint peeling due to being soaked with gas on the sock. Apply JB Weld with a tooth pick or skewer stake for good control. Only apply small dabs at a time and fold the thick mess around the "L" tube.

Step 5 is to let the JB Weld dry. As you can see, once reconnect the tube you won't even see this area and the gas tank will be dry. My scoot is garage stored so rust on the gas tank is not a concern of mine, but if it is for you scrape and lightly sand the area and then tape off with newspaper and hit with black spray paint in two thin (I mean THIN) coats and you're good.


ad said...

hello scooter couple (sorry, i dont know your names, this is the first time i stumbled upon your blog)

i am not an expert, but when i saw this photo, i could not stop myself from suggesting a possible fix:

It seems that the crack made the rubber fitting loose and the rubber-tube came off the orange tube-insert. Try cutting the (grey) rubber tube right below the crack and insert in into the orange tube insert, and use the metal clip to hold it in place. ( this is just like using a newer tube, just a tad bit smaller than the one you have) I am pretty sure you can use a pair of regular scissors to chut them off with no problem.

As long as the grey tube is long enough ( and since usually they are), you wont need to buy a new tube. And if that really is the problem, it should fix your problem as well.

Let me know if the wordings are a bit confusing, and i will try to come up with a diagram showing where you need to cut the tubes off.

ad said...

as a follow up to my last comment, notice how there are two other places where the tubes are connected to the tube inserts in the same picture. use them as a reference as of how the tube should be fitted in the tube insert.

Scooter Couple said...

Thx, but the grey tube is too short to work like that. I tried that first. I also learned that those lines are for the charcoal filter for air pollution in the back and don't effect the fuel at all.